Where Locals Eat In Rome - Get In On The Know!

Piazza Navona / Pantheon

The area around Piazza Navona and the Pantheon is teeming with restaurants, pizzerias, wine bars, fast food, and more.

You will never be without something to eat in this part of town.

I don't recommend eating ON either of these piazzas, although I do enjoy sitting at either of them for the lovely view, sipping on a glass of wine, every now and then.

But if you're looking for some local restaurants near Piazza Navona and the Pantheon, here are our favourites:

Trattoria Lilli

Trattoria Lilli is one of those secret spots you have to know about.

You are not going to stumble upon it by just walking around Piazza Navona or even peeking down back streets.

While they have a small wine list, I'm happy with a jug of their house wine.

And do NOT miss their sour cherry ricotta tart (torta di ricotta e visciole) for dessert. 

• Address: Via di Tor di Nona, 23
• Phone: +39 06 686 1916
• Hours: Tuesday - Saturday: 12:30 - 2:30 PM, 7:30 - 10:30 PM | Sunday: 12:30 - 3 PM | Monday closed

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Dal Cavalier Gino (aka Da Gino al Parlamento)

Wondering where Rome's politicians eat for lunch?

This kitschy little spot right next to Parliament is a favorite with senators and local denizens alike.

You'll always find traditional, seasonal, and local Roman dishes in Dal Cavalier Gino, like casserole of endive and anchovies, roast lamb, cuttlefish and peas, gnocchi on Thursdays, baccalà (cod) only on Fridays, and of course all the typical Roman pastas.

Two things I don't love - they don't serve coffee, and they have started to engage in the practice of having 2 seatings at lunch and at dinner, letting diners who book for 8 pm (when they open), know that they need to leave by 9:30. 

That's decidedly un-Roman, but the food and ambiance here still make it worth a visit.

• Address: Vicolo Rosini, 4
• Phone: +39 06 687 3434
• Hours: Monday - Saturday: 1 - 3 PM, 8 - 10:30 PM | Sunday closed

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Pietro Valentini

Pietro Valentini could be described as a hole in the wall except the food is much too delicious for that somewhat sad description.

But it is easy to miss it if you walk by and blink.

They don't have tables and chairs and menus outside so you just have to know to go there.

Pietro Valentini founded the restaurant in 1968, and today husband and wife owners Gabriele (chef) and Simona (hostess) run it with some help from their son (who is at university so can only help out on weekends).

The first time I ate here, I was charmed by the cute plates with old china patterns.

These clearly came from someone's cupboard (or maybe a thrift shop).

But what blew me away and made me think of eating at home with Alessandro's mom was the way certain dishes were served.

First, there are the old-school meatballs in white (non-tomato) sauce with peas.

It does not get much more homey than that.

But then I asked for bread and I got rosette!

Rosettas are a kind of bread I used to eat at breakfast with butter and jam, and that is very hard to find in Rome any more.

I haven't seen a bakery selling these in years.

But Pietro Valentini has them and I love how this one details takes me back in time.

• Address: Via Dei Pianellari 19
• Phone: +39 06 6868565
• Hours: Monday: 7:30 - 10:30 PM | Tuesday - Saturday: 12:45 - 2:30 PM, 7:30 - 10:30 PM | Sunday closed

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Campo Dei Fiori

Campo dei Fiori is one of those neighborhoods famous for places to eat and drink.

Most of these places, especially right on the square, are pretty touristy.

(There are only a couple right on the square where locals tend to go - Antica Hostaria Romanesca and Forno Campo de Fiori.)

If you head away from the square and meander down the little cobblestone streets, you will find some more local spots.

Here are our favorites:

Hostaria Farnese

Despite its location smack between the two big piazzas, Campo dei Fiori and Piazza Farnese, this little family-run hostaria is not a tourist trap. 

Yes, you will find some tourists eating here, given the location, but Hostaria Farnese is as local as they come.

You can find all the typical Roman dishes, and friendly service by the founders' grandson Luca and his staff.

Check the chalkboard for the daily specials, or let the staff help you decide if you're not sure what to get.

• Address: Via Dei Baullari, 109
• Phone: +39 06 6880 1595
• Hours: Friday - Wednesday: 12 - 3 PM, 7 - 11 PM | Thursday closed

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Cesare al pellegrino

There once was a restaurant called Settimio al Pellegrino, named for the original owner, Settimio Sazza, who opened it in 1932.

(It is such a Roman name! Think of Septimius Severus, Roman Emperor from 193 - 211).

In 1940, Settimio's son Mario and soon Mario's wife, Teresa, took over and turned the small "fraschetta" into something special.

(A fraschetta was once a wine cellar where wine was made and then served with simple food like porchetta, bread, and olives, in the Castelli Romani, the countryside near Rome.)

Settimio was not just a local trattoria.

It was a Roman institution.

In 2022, after 62 years, Mario and Teresa decided it was time to hang up the aprons.

But since the restaurant was such a local favorite, they didn't close it.

They sold it to another family of Rome restauranteurs, Leonardo Vignoli and Maria Pia Cicconi (of Cesare al Casaletto - also on this page), in my opinion the perfect family to take over this beloved spot.

They did a little renovating but kept the original feel of a simple trattoria.

They also kept one important dish from Settimio on their menu - Teresa's meatballs.

If you go, do not skip these meatballs as they are heaven on a plate.

• Address: Via del Pellegrino, 117
• Phone: +39 06 6880 1978
• Hours: Thursday - Tuesday: 1 - 2:30 PM, 8 - 10 PM | Wednesday closed

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Trevi Fountain

One might think restaurants around the Trevi Fountain (and the nearby Spanish Steps) are as touristy as they come.

Yes, there is a glut of those.

But there are some gems, too.

For my favorites, visit my pages about where to eat near the Trevi Fountain and the Spanish Steps.

Here's where locals eat in Rome near the Trevi Fountain:

Trattoria Della stampa

It can be hard to spot Trattoria Della Stampa as there are no tables outside.

There is a menu posted on the door.

You can ignore it.

Every day they do the shopping, and make food with whatever they bought.

When you sit down, they will come over and tell you what there is that day.

It's typical, simple Roman fare.

Meatballs, chicken with peppers, sautéed spinach.

I once stopped by to ask if they had carbonara on the menu, as a friend wanted to try some there.

The signora in white apron answered me:

"Why not? It's just a few ingredients. Sure, we make any of those dishes." 

In other words, you can get all the typical Roman pastas there, because the dishes are so simple, and can be whipped up in a jiffy.

Why bother putting them on the menu when everyone knows you can just ask for them?

• Address: via dei Maroniti, 32
• Phone: +39 06 678 9919
• Hours: Monday - Friday: 12:30 - 3:30 PM, 7 - 11 PM | Saturday - Sunday closed

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Hostaria Romana

Hostaria Romana is a cozy spot between the Trevi Fountain and Piazza Barberini.

When I come for lunch and sit in the back, I am surrounded by Romans, often people who live or work in the area. 

I sometimes just get a plate of veggies and appetizers from their buffet, but I also love their gnocchi (on Thursdays), and their artichokes are superb.

You will definitely run into tourists here but don't let that put you off.

The food is Roman, plain, simple, and delicious.

• Address: via del Boccaccio, 1
• Phone: +39 06 474 5284
• Hours: Monday - Saturday: 12:30 - 3 PM, 7:30 - 11 PM | Sunday closed

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Colosseum / Celio / Monti

While you'd think that this area is going to be chock full of tourist traps. there are actually lots of excellent places to eat if you know where to look.

Visit my page about where to eat near the Colosseum for all my recommendations.

But if you're looking to eat like a local near the Colosseum, try these favourites:

Romolo e remo

I am partial to this restaurant because it's near where I live, so I go often.

It does not get much more local than this.

As with many of the other spots on this page, the food is not going to win awards, but it's yummy, and fairly consistent.

You can try everything Roman from tripe to pajata to carbonara.

I love their baked fish with potatoes, or pollo ai peperoni, chicken with bell peppers in tomato sauce, a classic Roman summer dish (in fact, it's the "official dish" eaten on my birthday, August 15, Ferragosto.)

• Address: Via Pannonia, 22-26
• Phone: +39 06 7720 8187
• Hours: Tuesday - Thursday: 7 - 11 PM | Thursday - Sunday: 12 - 3 PM, 7 - 11 PM | Monday closed.
  

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Pizzeria SForza Piero

This tiny old-fashioned pizza-by-the-slice spot is not going to attract a lot of tourists.

The pizza does not have toppings piled high.

There's barely anyplace to sit.

And half the time, it looks like they've run out of food.

They are not trying to fill up the display case to please a passing tourist.

Their regulars know how good the food is.

You go in, order some pizza or other food that was made earlier in the day, wait for them to heat it up, and then walk it to the tiny counter and tuck in.

Quick, simple, delicious.

• Address: Via Celimontana, 17
• Hours: Monday - Saturday 9 AM - 10 PM | Sunday closed
  

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Taverna dei Fori Imperiali

I hesitated to put this one on this page, because it's pretty well-known and has been hyped a lot over the years.

For a while, it suffered a bit from getting a bit too written-about and too popular.

They lost a little of their oopmh when food bloggers were touting them - maybe they got too busy too fast - but they take their work seriously and in my opinion, they got their groove back.

And at the end of the day, this is a local spot where people who live in the neighbourhood eat regularly, and you can tell.

I don't even eat here that regularly and they always remember me.

It can be hard to get a table here, given its proximity to the Colosseum and Roman Forum, and given its history as a food blogger darling.

So book ahead if you can.

• Address: Via della Madonna dei Monti, 9
• Phone: +39 066798643
• Hours: Wednesday - Monday 12:30 - 3 PM | Tuesday closed
  

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Via Veneto / Piazza Fiume

While Via Veneto is famous among visitors for its luxury hotels, it's also an area that's chock full of government ministries, banks, and other businesses. 

So of course there are places where these Romans working in the area go to eat, especially for lunch.

Here are a few of my favorite spots near via Veneto/Piazza Fiume where locals eat in Rome:

Fiaschetteria Marini

Fiaschetteria Marini is one of my favorite lunch spots in Rome.

And it's always packed with locals who work in the area.

So I try to come early, like 12:30.

I love their hand-written menu with simple items such as chicken cacciatore (no tomato sauce.)

Their classic Roman pasta dishes are superb, but I also love when they have soup on the menu.

And I like their brisk but friendly service.

Because they are used to a business crowd, you can get in and out of here relatively quickly if you want to.

But you can also linger if you prefer a more leisurely pace.

• Address: Via Raffaele Cadorna, 9
• Phone: +39 06 474 5534
• Hours: Mondays: 12 - 3 PM | Tuesday - Saturday: 12 - 3 PM, 7 - 10:45 PM | Sunday closed

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Cantina Cantarini 

This spot is just around the corner from Fiaschetteria Marini (above.)

They serve cuisine from Le Marche, so no, it's not Roman.

But it is homey and a favorite with locals who live and work in the area.

I always see it full at lunchtime, especially the outdoor tables.

But I like to eat inside where it's cozy and old-school.

• Address: Piazza Sallustio, 12
• Phone: +39 06 485528
• Hours: Monday - Saturday: 12:30 - 3 PM, 7:30 - 10:30 PM | Sunday closed

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Vatican / Prati

Like many other neighborhoods in Rome near a major tourist attraction, this large swath of Rome that includes Prati and the Borgo is full of proverbial tourist traps.

And yet, like other similar neighborhoods, Romans live here and they have their favorite local spots.

Click here to read our guide to where to eat near the Vatican and Vatican Museums.

If you really want to eat like a local near Vatican City, here's where to go:

Il Matriciano

So far, four generations of the Colasanti have run Il Matriciano since it opened in 1912.

Today, at least one of the brother and sister team Alberto and Rosa are always at hand to make sure everything is running smoothly.

And when you eat here, you'll notice that most of the diners seem to know the owners.

If I lived in the area, I'd eat here often, as the food is just so good.

• Address: Via dei Gracchi, 55
• Phone: +39 063212327
• Hours: Thursday - Tuesday: 12:30 - 3 PM, 7:45 - 10:45 PM | Sunday: 12:30  - 3 PM | Wednesday closed
  

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Ragno D'Oro

Ragno d'Oro is another one of those time-machine restaurants, where it feels like you're eating in a rustic trattoria set in the 50s or 60s.

The food continues to stay true to tradition - so much so that their amatriciana does not have "crisped" guanciale, but rather the original way of making it with soft, slightly melted guanciale.

Try their fried artichokes when they are in season.

Thank me later.

• Address: Via Silla, 26
• Phone: +39 063212362
  
• Hours: Monday: 7 - 11 PM | Tuesday - Saturday: 12:30 - 3 PM, 7 - 11 PM | Sunday closed
  

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Dal Toscano

Why is a Tuscan restaurant so popular with locals in Rome?

Because it's old-school and feels so welcoming, and because the food is excellent.

You'll find plenty of Tuscan specialties on the menu of Dal Toscano, like ribollita (when in season), white beans in oil, and of course, Bistecca alla Fiorentina.

But you'll also find options for Roman dishes, too, like puntarelle when they are in season.

• Address: Via Germanico, 58-60
• Phone: +39 0639725717
• Hours: Tuesday - Sunday: 12:30 - 3 PM, 8 - 11:15 PM | Monday closed
  

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Termini / Esquilino

The area around Termini station is full of places to eat, many of them touristy and selling some kind of fast food.

But Castro Pretorio, the rione where Termini is located, is where Alessandro grew up, and as they say "back in the day", before it became overrun with hotels and other services for tourists, it was a thriving local neighbourhood.

When I moved here with him in 2001, we lived in this area, and I remember it being so much more of a family neighbourhood than what it is today.

And that means there are plenty of local places to eat if you know where to look for them.

You can tell a place is not touristy by a few factors:

• Original fixtures - often more than 20-30 years old.
• Old-school waiters sporting something semi-formal like a white shirt and vest.
• The obvious - locals eating here, especially at lunch.

This section covers Castro Pretorio and also the Esquilino rione, which includes Piazza Vittorio.

There are many local places to eat in such a wide swath of Rome, but here are some of our favourites:

Sapori di casa

This is one of our go-to spots in the area.

We love the simple Roman menu and the convivial atmosphere - which can get loud, just saying.

I've probably had everything on the menu of Sapori di casa, and it's consistently good.

• Address: Viale the Università, 17-19
• Phone: +39 06 4436 0848
• Hours: Monday - Saturday: 12 - 3:30 PM, 7 PM - Midnight | Sunday closed
  

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Da Danilo

Da Danilo is something of an institution.

Romans, and not just locals, flock here for the warm inviting atmosphere and the delicious cucina romana.

Check for the daily specials, but know you will always find the classic Roman pasta dishes.

In fact, Da Danilo makes a lot of "best carbonara in Rome" lists, including mine.

• Address: Via Petrarca, 13
• Phone: +39 0677200111
  
• Hours: Monday: 8 - 11 PM | Tuesday - Saturday 1 - 3 PM, 8 - 11 PM | Sunday closed
  

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Trastevere

Trastevere is somehow famous among visitors as being a great area for eating.

Frankly, I think just about every part of Rome is good for eating if you know where to go.

There are plenty of mediocre and even awful restaurants in Trawstevere, but I have pages with the best places to eat in Trastevere, even specifically, where to get the best pasta in Trastevere and where to get the best pizza in Trastevere.

And now, if you want to know where the locals eat, here you go:

Checco er Caretterie

Checco is one of my all-time favorite restaurants in Rome, and certainly my favorite in Trastevere.

It's not just that they have all the Roman dishes or that it's always full of Romans.

It's not just that it's one of Alessandro's favourites, and has been since he was a boy and used to come here with his family.

It's that the food is superb, every single time.

My mouth waters even as I write this.

Don't be put off by the somewhat standoffish service or waiters who might even ignore you when things get really busy.

Just relax and dig in.

• Address: Via Benedetta, 10
• Phone: +39 065817018
  
• Hours: Monday - Sunday: 12 - 2:30 PM, 7 - 11 PM
  

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Pizzeria ai Marmi

Pizzeria ai Marmi has been in operation since 1931, and run by the Panattoni brothers, Paolo, Renzo, and Carlo, since 1980.

(The actual official name of the pizzeria is "Panattoni Pizza").

The name "Ai Marmi" comes from the tables' marble surfaces, which have remained to this day.

Romans also refer to it by another nickname, “L'obitorio”, which means "the morgue" - again, because of the cold marble slabs that adorn the tables, similar to those found in classic old-style pizzerias in Naples.

The nickname was coined by the poet Pier Paolo Pasolini, who lived nearby and ate here often.

There is no secret to their success - the pizza is that classic super-thin, slightly burnt crispy Roman-style pizza, a recipe handed down to them from their great-grandfather.

Don't forget to indulge in the classic pre-pizza starter - supplì, fried zucchini flowers, or battered baccalà (cod).

• Address: Viale di Trastevere, 53-59
• Phone: +39 065800919
  
• Hours: Tuesday - Monday: 6:30 PM - 2:30 AM | Wednesday closed
  

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Da Teo

One of the things I love about Da Teo is how it feels hidden and only for those in the know.

Much more popular (and in my opinion, much worse) restaurants nearby attract the tourist crowds.

It's not that nobody knows about Da Teo. 

In fact, don't come without booking in advance. 

But if you get in, congratulations!

I've tried most of the menu, and everything's a winner. Enjoy!

• Address: Piazza dei Ponziani, 7A
• Phone: +39 065818355
  
• Hours: Monday - Saturday: 12:30 - 3 PM, 7:30 - 11:30 PM | Sunday closed
  

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Testaccio

Testaccio is already a local, somewhat off the beaten path neighbourhood, so you're less likely to find super touristy restaurants here.

Below are some of our favorite spots where you can eat like a local in Rome:

Piatto Romano

The cat is out of the bag.

The once uber-local no-frills Piatto Romano has begun to make the rounds on social media and it's no longer a locals-only eatery.

But do not let that stop you for a minute.

The food is as local as it gets.

One of my favorite things about Piatto Romano is the quantity and quality of greens and vegetables they have on offer.

Want to eat like a local here?

Eat at a later hour like 8:30 or 9 PM.

But no matter what time you come, you will eat divinely.

• Address: Via Giovanni Battista Bodoni, 62
• Phone: +39 0664014447
  
• Hours: Monday - Saturday: 12:45 - 3 PM, 7:45 - 11:30 PM | Sunday closed
  

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Da Bucatino

Bucatino is another Testaccio favorite with locals.

Their pasta dishes are all divine.

If you want the Roman classics, you'll certainly find them here, but they also often have some special pasta dishes, so check for the daily specials.

One of my favorite things to order at Da Bucatini is their grilled artichoke.

They are somewhat famous for their tiramisu, so if that's your thing, don't miss it here.

• Address: Via Luca della Robbia, 84
• Phone: +39 06 574 6886
• Hours: Tuesday - Sunday: 12 - 3 PM, 7 PM - Midnight | Closed Monday

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San Giovanni / Appio Latino

Da Roberto e Loretta

If I had three nights to eat in Rome, this would be one of the places I'd eat.

Ever since the first time I ate here, Roberto e Loretta has been one of my all-time Roman favourites.

Considering I live nearby and by now know the owners and staff by name, I eat here often and I have to say, I've never once been disappointed.

One of my favorite things about eating here is the relaxed convivial atmosphere.

They do not adhere to timed seatings and I've never once felt crowded or rushed.

Everything is good here, including the desserts.

Try it, you'll thank me.

• Address: Via Saturnia, 18
• Phone: +39 0677201037
• Hours: Tuesday - Sunday: 12 - 3 PM, 7:45 PM - Midnight | Monday Closed

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Dar Bruttone

This place is so local, on a recent visit with out of town American friends, more than one staff member came over to ask us where we were from.

Most people who work in restaurants in Rome's center are used to hearing English and languages other than Italian spoken by their patrons, but at Dar Bruttone, you're likely to only hear Italian all around you.

The food is good, typically Roman.

The service is speedy just because it's always packed, yet they never rush you, one reason I love it here.

• Address: Via Taranto, 118
• Phone: +39 0689024870
• Hours: Monday: 7:30 - 10:30 PM | Tuesday - Sunday: 12:30 - 3 PM, 7:30 - 10:30 PM
  

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Where Locals Eat in Rome - A bit further out

Some of these restaurants could be categorised in some of the above neighbourhoods, but I put them in their own category because they are all a bit far from Rome's historic center.

Whether you're staying in the area where these are or not, all are worth a trip out there to give them a try, if local is what you're looking for.

Da Emilio

Da Emilio is the perfect spot for dining with the locals and enjoying super homey Roman food. 

Da Emilio offers a casual atmosphere where you can enjoy delicious cucina romana among the locals.

You'll find most of your favorite Roman dishes and some excellent fish options to boot (I am a big fan of the fried anchovies as appetizer or main course.)

• Address: Via Alessandria, 189
• Phone: +39 06 855 8977
• Hours: Monday - Friday: 12:30 - 2:30 PM, 7:30 - 10:30 PM | Saturday - Sunday closed

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Da Cesare al Casaletto

Since Da Cesare has been written about by just about every food blogger and article about where to eat in Rome, it might not seem to belong on this page.

I was trying to keep it to places that are really under-visited by tourists.

But Da Cesare is in fact where locals eat in Rome quite a lot.

It is after all, in a residential neighborhood, far from the city center (it's easy to get here on the 8 tram leaving Piazza Venezia.)

Every time I have been to Cesare al Casaletto, I've seen mostly local clientele, relaxed and convivial, enjoying their Roman food and pizza. 

I have pretty much always seen/heard tourists too, but again, that's not a bad thing.

Just know you will not be the only out-of-towner there.

• Address: Via del Casaletto, 45
• Phone: +39 06 536 015
• Hours: Thursday - Tuesday: 12:30 - 3 PM, 7:30 - 11 PM | Wednesday closed
  

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La Tavernaccia da Bruno

This spot could be included in the section about restaurants in Trastevere, except it's just a little farther out than that.

But I assure you, it's worth making your way over here.

Everything about Bruno is great - the ambiance, the food, the vibe.

It's not devoid of tourists, but I assure you, Da Bruno is a place locals love.

• Address: Via Giovanni da Castel Bolognese, 63
• Phone: +39 065812792
  
• Hours: Thursday - Tuesday: 12:30 - 3 PM, 7:30 - 11 PM | Wednesday closed
  

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Osteria Bonelli

If you happen to visit the mausoleum of Santa Costanza and you want a place to eat nearby, look no further than this local gem, Bonelli.

This is the place to come to eat super-local, and immerse yourself in that truly Roman experience.

It doesn't hurt to have ancient Roman aqueducts as your backdrop.

It's always chock a block with locals, and with good reason.

The food is not only delicious, it's affordable, and the atmosphere is lively and friendly.

A win-win on every front.

• Address: Viale dell'Acquedotto Alessandrino, 172/174
• Phone: +39 3298633077
  
• Hours: Monday - Saturday: 12:30 - 4 PM, 7:30 PM - Midnight | Sunday: 12:30 - 4 PM
  

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Where Locals Eat in Rome - A Map

Click here to visit my interactive Google map showing all the places where locals eat in Rome listed on this page.

It will open in a new window.